Myanmar 2003 Christmas Trip
I was undecided at first about visiting Myanmar as it was ruled by the military junta, State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC), which has been responsible for repressing democracy, jailing, killing, exiling dissidents, and imprisoning the popularly elected Nobel Laureate Aung San Suu Kyi. The lady herself has asked the international community to stop visiting her country as tourist money indirectly goes to the junta, which will in turn feed the vicious cycle of political repression and obstruct Myanmar’s transition to democracy.
On the other hand, Myanmar holds a certain allure for me. Not only is it part of Asia (which I profess to have a certain fascination with) but also, it is a primarily Buddhist nation famous for temples and friendly people.
After my first visit, I feel that Myanmar is like many South East Asian countries in some aspects and yet unlike them at others.
The roads of Myanmar (or at least the ones I see) are surprisingly rather well kept and pavements are clean; though air is polluted at times. Motorbikes are prohibited in Yangon and allowed only for VIP escorts. This is an interesting phenomenon as many South East Asian countries such as Cambodia and Vietnam is practically thronged with bikes and bicycles. Second hand taxis are non air-con and one needs to bargain with driver before taking it. A cab ride costs about US 1 to 3 dollars within the city centre. Because cars are imported, drivers seat are either left or right handed, which is confusing for foreign drivers.
Despite the seeming lack of road regulations and absence of traffic police, there are few accidents. Buses and vans are forms of local transport which travelers are advised to avoid as they are very packed.
One reason to visit Myanmar is its colonial British architecture as it used to be a colony until independence in 1948, January 4. Besides modern hotels and a few sprawling commercial buildings which clearly looks out of place amidst older buildings and terrace houses, Yangon is essentially a time tunnel back to the early 30s.
The people are basically friendly and a few touts would approach tourists to exchange US dollars for local currency, kyat (pronounced “jet”). The requirement to change 200 US dollars worth of Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECS) is waived for Foreign Independent Travellers, which is good news though US “sanctions” means credit cards are primarily not accepted anymore in most places, hotels and restaurants included.
I feel that visiting Myanmar poses a dilemma for the concerned tourist. While I agree with Aung San Suu Kyi that visiting Myanmar would fund the regime (and of which I feel most tourists dollars spent is likely to channel back to them), Yangon remains compellingly one of the few countries that in the region that is relatively untouched and traditionally Asian.
Highlights of Trip (not in order):
1. Strand Hotel
This is a guilt trip since hotel guests and diners are treated like royals. The dinner menu for either cafe or restaurant is extricate fine dining and the service is impeccable. The lobby feels a trifle small because of the couches; but otherwise the elegantly decorated and renovated hotel is another time capsule back to the colonial days.
2. Bogyoke Aung San Market
Housed within few buildings looking like what could be British barracks, the market bustles with activity during the day as locals and travelers mingle and shop for a wide range of goods; including Burmese wares, handicrafts, clothes, and jewellery. I suspect most goods in the market are locally produced with no counterfeit branded stuff unlike markets in other Asian countries. Bargaining remains a norm. Longyi’s are the traditional male sarong like bottoms, mostly checkered and worth buying as souvenirs.
3. Make- Up
Women and kids wear visible brown coloured make-up from trees which is supposed to act as sun block and skin softener.
4. Stores
Stores which sells the same types items normally congregate together. It is easy to be lost in the streets, through crowds away from tourist spots; by just looking at the amazing range of wares they sell. I recall a back street filled with rows of shops selling different types of paper while another stocks books. Some of the second hand magazines, books and even encyclopedia dated as far as 1927 could be found among the heaps by roadside sellers!
5. Shwedagaon Paya
The one place you have to visit in Yangon. Considered most sacred of all Buddhist site in country and which all Burmese hope to visit at least once in their lifetime, Shwedagon is a well kept hot tourist spot. Entrance fees is US 5 dollars, and you get to register your name and nationality. The grand temple takes about 30 minutes to finish a full round. Buddhas, pavilions, flowers for offerings, dedicated and religious Burmese praying, having a picnic, families taking their pictures, marriage ceremonies - you cannot get more Burmese than that.
6. Missed Places – hoped to visit
Reclining Buddha in Chatukhtatgyi Paya and pro democracy landmark such as Martyr’s Mausoleum and Aung San Suu Kyi’s house.
7. Inya Lake
Listed as a place to visit in Lonely Planet but seemingly uninteresting from the outside.
8. Blackouts
Common in 4 star hotels and air-con cafes/ restaurants
9. Fine dining in Traders Hotel and Sedona Hotel
10. Night Life
Nightlife is probably one of the segment you should avoid in Yangon (or at least the places I visited). Clubs I visited play music from the early 60s era. Some Philippino bands play at certain hotel bars. Pioneer Music Club at Yuzan Garden Hotel plays soapy ballads, lots of Bob Marley and Christmas carols on boxing day. There is no dancing on the day I visited despite a dancefloor. Clubs have to close by 1 pm.
Lion Club boasts a stage at one end with some modern dancing and music performance. They serve dinner as well. Most eating establishment except hotels lists prices in kyats though you can pay in US dollars. Exchange rate at time of visit with different eating establishments varies from place to place though at time of visit, it is 1 US dollar pegged from 1000 to 850 kyat.
11. Signages
Mainly Burmese signs though some popular roads are in English. Some Chinese shops.
12. Eating places at Sidewalks
Locals sitting at sidewalk and having snacks or dinner. Side stall owners place low tables arranged with tea cups, utensils and stools. They serve different kinds of food from what looks like satay (meat sticks) to salads. One thing about walking along the streets in Yangon is the inescapable smell of food. Anthony Bourdain would have loved or hated the place.
